When I'm shipping something really rare/expensive, this is how I do it. Go to Home Depot and pick up a 4" diameter PVC tube. Cut it down to size there and get the end caps. Done and done.
Shipping with PVC
- admonkey
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Re: Shipping with PVC
The environment appreciates everything you're doing.
- pennylesspig
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Re: Shipping with PVC
I do that when I send something overseas.
after putting it in the pvc tube, i put the pvc in a shipping tube.
after putting it in the pvc tube, i put the pvc in a shipping tube.
- Tad Ghostal
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If its good enough to deserve high-brow shipping, its good enough to never be rolled again. Almost all edge damage, corner damage, and those irritating half-crescent soft creases occur from rolling and unrolling.
An unbeatable method is to get two pieces of new gatorboard cut with generous allowances for the print. Lay the print down, and use mylar corners to secure it so that when the boards are later opened, the print won't slip out and get damaged accidentally (you should be able to do this without ever even touching the print). Place the second piece of gatorboard on top, and bundle the package up with tape. Now cut two pieces of 3/16" thick hardboard at the same size as your gatorboard pieces, and sandwich the entire thing, using two or three sheets of kraft paper to hold it all together (wrap the edges and overfold like a nice gift). This provides a very mild amount of flex, is as close to unbreakable as you'll likely ever achieve, its relatively light, and the recipient will be much happier because it can go straight into a frame or a portfolio.
An unbeatable method is to get two pieces of new gatorboard cut with generous allowances for the print. Lay the print down, and use mylar corners to secure it so that when the boards are later opened, the print won't slip out and get damaged accidentally (you should be able to do this without ever even touching the print). Place the second piece of gatorboard on top, and bundle the package up with tape. Now cut two pieces of 3/16" thick hardboard at the same size as your gatorboard pieces, and sandwich the entire thing, using two or three sheets of kraft paper to hold it all together (wrap the edges and overfold like a nice gift). This provides a very mild amount of flex, is as close to unbreakable as you'll likely ever achieve, its relatively light, and the recipient will be much happier because it can go straight into a frame or a portfolio.
Pudding can't fill the emptiness inside me! But it'll help.
- jshea
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Tad Ghostal wrote:If its good enough to deserve high-brow shipping, its good enough to never be rolled again. Almost all edge damage, corner damage, and those irritating half-crescent soft creases occur from rolling and unrolling.
An unbeatable method is to get two pieces of new gatorboard cut with generous allowances for the print. Lay the print down, and use mylar corners to secure it so that when the boards are later opened, the print won't slip out and get damaged accidentally (you should be able to do this without ever even touching the print). Place the second piece of gatorboard on top, and bundle the package up with tape. Now cut two pieces of 3/16" thick hardboard at the same size as your gatorboard pieces, and sandwich the entire thing, using two or three sheets of kraft paper to hold it all together (wrap the edges and overfold like a nice gift). This provides a very mild amount of flex, is as close to unbreakable as you'll likely ever achieve, its relatively light, and the recipient will be much happier because it can go straight into a frame or a portfolio.
Good tips. Any idea how much shipping something flat like this costs?
- Tad Ghostal
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In my experience, not much more than shipping with a regular tube. Weird, I know. Packing materials aren't cheap, but if you order them online, its not bad. Its certainly not for all prints, but if its rare/special/expensive, then the peace of mind is worth the extra time and expense to use this method.
Pudding can't fill the emptiness inside me! But it'll help.
Re:
Tad Ghostal wrote:If its good enough to deserve high-brow shipping, its good enough to never be rolled again. Almost all edge damage, corner damage, and those irritating half-crescent soft creases occur from rolling and unrolling.
An unbeatable method is to get two pieces of new gatorboard cut with generous allowances for the print. Lay the print down, and use mylar corners to secure it so that when the boards are later opened, the print won't slip out and get damaged accidentally (you should be able to do this without ever even touching the print). Place the second piece of gatorboard on top, and bundle the package up with tape. Now cut two pieces of 3/16" thick hardboard at the same size as your gatorboard pieces, and sandwich the entire thing, using two or three sheets of kraft paper to hold it all together (wrap the edges and overfold like a nice gift). This provides a very mild amount of flex, is as close to unbreakable as you'll likely ever achieve, its relatively light, and the recipient will be much happier because it can go straight into a frame or a portfolio.
Yep. Shipping flat is preferable, though in this case, the piece is roughly 6'x4', which hardly practical to ship flat. Though, I have even done that before with a Ryden "Snow White".
Re: Shipping with PVC
You can also ship in a normal tube, but put the tube in a box that has been lined with thick corrugated cardboard. More environmentally friendly, and can survive a 190lbs man jumping up and down on it.