DIY framing with easycraig

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snowphun
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

Post by snowphun »

Does anybody have a source for good bulk picture molding? Most of what Home Depot and Lowes have for molding doesn't lend itself to frames, but there are many places online to buy frame molding in long runs for you to cut to length. Random Google example: http://www.frameworxz.com/Search.bok?ca ... me+Molding

I'm not picky about the type of wood, just looking for decent quality and maybe a couple options so all my frames don't look the same. I used to get cheap 8' fir strips from HD and run the through a router but I'd like to try some better quality options.
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

Post by jwoods103 »

question on the stock frames from aaron brothers and the glass. I have put a bunch of my prints up on my wall int ese stock froms with the stock glass would it be better if i got uv free glass? they are not in direct sunlight
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Post by influence »

The stock glass is fine if they're not directly in the sun light. If anything, I would go with plexi glass (you can get these custom cut at Lowe's). Earthquake-proof baby.
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Post by jwoods103 »

influence wrote:The stock glass is fine if they're not directly in the sun light. If anything, I would go with plexi glass (you can get these custom cut at Lowe's). Earthquake-proof baby.



thanks , i have spacers in the frames just more worried about speeding up the fading process
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

Post by Mad Daego »

easycraig wrote:
Image

Image

Image


These are the same 18X24 that Hobby Lobby stock and are often available for like $15 during their regular 50% off sales. Personally I think they look great. No fuss no muss. However, they are a bit shallow and there's only room for the print and backing board, no spacers, and all mine are directly up against the glass. Kid tried to sell me some plastic spacers that are essentially coffee stirs for $15. I passed.
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Post by rhombus_77 »

I just noticed, is that Britney Spears in the head lock?
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

Post by Bobak »

Quick question, not sure if this will work:

I have some small, odd-sized prints (4.5" x 6"), so I'm considering buying some slightly larger frames from Michael's that let you float the print between 2 pieces of glass. I don't want to rest the prints on the glass, so I'm considering purchasing some mylar sheets from Bags Unlimited and cutting them to the glass size (two sheets per frame) and then sandwiching the print with the mylar so that it's not touching the glass. Would this work?
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

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Bobak wrote:Quick question, not sure if this will work:

I have some small, odd-sized prints (4.5" x 6"), so I'm considering buying some slightly larger frames from Michael's that let you float the print between 2 pieces of glass. I don't want to rest the prints on the glass, so I'm considering purchasing some mylar sheets from Bags Unlimited and cutting them to the glass size (two sheets per frame) and then sandwiching the print with the mylar so that it's not touching the glass. Would this work?


There are probably many ways you could go about floating a small print that small while keeping it nice and safe.

What print method was used for this specific print? And what is a ballpark of value on it? I know I'd be comfy working with my own stuff, but giving advice to other people always kinda freaks me out in case I'm saying incorrect stuff. I'd be more than happy to openly discuss, or PM back and forth, the way that I'd go about framing a print that size. But I'd like to say I'm no pro, and even though I have good intentions, please double check all of my recommendations on your own to make sure you're comfy with everything.

I personally think if you used more rigid mylar material it'd work great (if you used similar material to what print portfolio sheets are made from you may be dealing with wrinkles and slipping and more hassle than it's worth), but I'd personally definitely use small mylar corners to prevent the print from slipping. You can see them a little bit, but it'll keep the piece from shifting.
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

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Patillac13 wrote:There are probably many ways you could go about floating a small print that small while keeping it nice and safe.

What print method was used for this specific print? And what is a ballpark of value on it? I know I'd be comfy working with my own stuff, but giving advice to other people always kinda freaks me out in case I'm saying incorrect stuff. I'd be more than happy to openly discuss, or PM back and forth, the way that I'd go about framing a print that size. But I'd like to say I'm no pro, and even though I have good intentions, please double check all of my recommendations on your own to make sure you're comfy with everything.

I personally think if you used more rigid mylar material it'd work great (if you used similar material to what print portfolio sheets are made from you may be dealing with wrinkles and slipping and more hassle than it's worth), but I'd personally definitely use small mylar corners to prevent the print from slipping. You can see them a little bit, but it'll keep the piece from shifting.


I doubt they're going to appreciate too much in any amount of time, so I'm not going to freak out if there's a mistake (though it would suck). I was definitely thinking about rigid materials for that reason. I can see how corners could help if the paper starts to settle or move... The frames would be easy to open up again, so I might try without and see if it works, then perhaps add them later.
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

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Bobak wrote:I doubt they're going to appreciate too much in any amount of time, so I'm not going to freak out if there's a mistake (though it would suck). I was definitely thinking about rigid materials for that reason. I can see how corners could help if the paper starts to settle or move... The frames would be easy to open up again, so I might try without and see if it works, then perhaps add them later.

From what I've seen, those frames are typically made so you just double-sided tape the photo to the back piece and put the frame back together, so I would personally prefer to use mylar corners and leave a tiny bit of wiggle room versus just try to hold the print between the two pieces of glass by putting pressure on the glass pieces and holding the prints in between them with any force.

I tried to frame something once by just putting it between the glass and the backing material and it was a huge headache to keep in the right spot, I wish I would've known about the mylar corners back then :oops:

...but you can always try some things out and find out what works best for you.
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Post by slidingaround »

I need to get a silly amount of stuff framed and have been looking for a decent framer for ages! I think i might have found one but they said they use a small amout of acid free tape on the back of the print to hold it in place? Is this common practice? Is it a bad idea?
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Post by mikey c »

After reading through this and a few other threads here I put in a big order at DickBlick this past weekend. My mat cutter and other materials should arrive today, so by the end of the week I should have a lot more prints on my walls! My only worry is that the stock frames at Michaels won't allow for a 4-ply mat.
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slidingaround wrote:I need to get a silly amount of stuff framed and have been looking for a decent framer for ages! I think i might have found one but they said they use a small amout of acid free tape on the back of the print to hold it in place? Is this common practice? Is it a bad idea?

Are you getting your stuff matted? I'm not really comfy with tape on prints, but if they know it'll be OK, that's a different story, I just don't like the idea of any adhesive touching the paper. I know some forum members use double sided tape with prints, but I'd rather have mylar corners or mounting strips showing a tiny bit over knowing that there was adhesive used. But, once I buy something that needs to be pedestal floated and I can't use mylar corners, I'm going to have to get over my fears and take it to a framer... :lol:

mikey c wrote:After reading through this and a few other threads here I put in a big order at DickBlick this past weekend. My mat cutter and other materials should arrive today, so by the end of the week I should have a lot more prints on my walls! My only worry is that the stock frames at Michaels won't allow for a 4-ply mat.

Sweet! That's cool that you're getting all the supplies, man. I sold a print to one of my coworkers and we framed it up together... he bought a shallow frame and we had the mat cut and the backing wouldn't fit back on far enough to stay by itself, so we placed everything in and then taped around the back opening (the backing board and back of the frame were flush so it worked out well. Might be a little goofy, but it definitely worked in the end. Congratulations on getting started framing your own stuff.
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Re: Re:

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Yeas they will use a matt and the smallest amount of tape at the top of the print apparently. They told me it's approved by some british Art/museam or something National standards. Something like that anyway. Is there another way i could ask her to do it? I mentioned mylar corners and she said oh we just use a tiny bit of acid free tape. It is concerning me a bit!

Patillac13 wrote:
slidingaround wrote:I need to get a silly amount of stuff framed and have been looking for a decent framer for ages! I think i might have found one but they said they use a small amout of acid free tape on the back of the print to hold it in place? Is this common practice? Is it a bad idea?

Are you getting your stuff matted? I'm not really comfy with tape on prints, but if they know it'll be OK, that's a different story, I just don't like the idea of any adhesive touching the paper. I know some forum members use double sided tape with prints, but I'd rather have mylar corners or mounting strips showing a tiny bit over knowing that there was adhesive used. But, once I buy something that needs to be pedestal floated and I can't use mylar corners, I'm going to have to get over my fears and take it to a framer... :lol:

mikey c wrote:After reading through this and a few other threads here I put in a big order at DickBlick this past weekend. My mat cutter and other materials should arrive today, so by the end of the week I should have a lot more prints on my walls! My only worry is that the stock frames at Michaels won't allow for a 4-ply mat.

Sweet! That's cool that you're getting all the supplies, man. I sold a print to one of my coworkers and we framed it up together... he bought a shallow frame and we had the mat cut and the backing wouldn't fit back on far enough to stay by itself, so we placed everything in and then taped around the back opening (the backing board and back of the frame were flush so it worked out well. Might be a little goofy, but it definitely worked in the end. Congratulations on getting started framing your own stuff.
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Re: Re:

Post by rhombus_77 »

That scares me. Adhesive isn't necessary if using mounting strips

slidingaround wrote:Yeas they will use a matt and the smallest amount of tape at the top of the print apparently. They told me it's approved by some british Art/museam or something National standards. Something like that anyway. Is there another way i could ask her to do it? I mentioned mylar corners and she said oh we just use a tiny bit of acid free tape. It is concerning me a bit!
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slidingaround wrote:Yeas they will use a matt and the smallest amount of tape at the top of the print apparently. They told me it's approved by some british Art/museam or something National standards. Something like that anyway. Is there another way i could ask her to do it? I mentioned mylar corners and she said oh we just use a tiny bit of acid free tape. It is concerning me a bit!


I would push for archival corners or mounting strips (neither attach to the print in any way, they attach to the backside of the mat or the front side of the backing). If the tape is concerning you at all, don't go along with it. They should be more than happy to work with you on that, but if they frame everything that ever comes their way like that and no one has had issues it's probably fine... I'm just kinda stubborn and particular when it comes to some things like this, I guess :lol: But hey, it's your art, not theirs, so make sure it's framed how you want it!

(Like Rhombus_77 said... I don't see the need for tape at all when there are different options that won't adhere to the paper at all. I don't get it... but I'm no pro.)
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Re: Re:

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Patillac13 wrote:
slidingaround wrote:Yeas they will use a matt and the smallest amount of tape at the top of the print apparently. They told me it's approved by some british Art/museam or something National standards. Something like that anyway. Is there another way i could ask her to do it? I mentioned mylar corners and she said oh we just use a tiny bit of acid free tape. It is concerning me a bit!


I would push for archival corners or mounting strips (neither attach to the print in any way, they attach to the backside of the mat or the front side of the backing). If the tape is concerning you at all, don't go along with it. They should be more than happy to work with you on that, but if they frame everything that ever comes their way like that and no one has had issues it's probably fine... I'm just kinda stubborn and particular when it comes to some things like this, I guess :lol: But hey, it's your art, not theirs, so make sure it's framed how you want it!

(Like Rhombus_77 said... I don't see the need for tape at all when there are different options that won't adhere to the paper at all. I don't get it... but I'm no pro.)


I kind of feel the same way as you guys, i dont want any adhesive touching it at all really. Il ask for other options i think. She seemed to know what she was on about and had some pricey art in the gallery so il go back at the weekend i think and ask. Thanks guys!
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

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Patillac13 wrote:
Bobak wrote:I doubt they're going to appreciate too much in any amount of time, so I'm not going to freak out if there's a mistake (though it would suck). I was definitely thinking about rigid materials for that reason. I can see how corners could help if the paper starts to settle or move... The frames would be easy to open up again, so I might try without and see if it works, then perhaps add them later.

From what I've seen, those frames are typically made so you just double-sided tape the photo to the back piece and put the frame back together, so I would personally prefer to use mylar corners and leave a tiny bit of wiggle room versus just try to hold the print between the two pieces of glass by putting pressure on the glass pieces and holding the prints in between them with any force.

I tried to frame something once by just putting it between the glass and the backing material and it was a huge headache to keep in the right spot, I wish I would've known about the mylar corners back then :oops:

...but you can always try some things out and find out what works best for you.


So, with the Mylar corners: do you use four and pre-measure them, or do you use two at the bottom to simply keep the print from sliding all the way down?

My biggest concern is visibility given the frame style: this is going to be the see-through the surrounding space (between print and frame) variety --do the edges of the corners at least stay within a 1 or 2 mm of the edge? I don't want them being too obvious.
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

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Bobak wrote:So, with the Mylar corners: do you use four and pre-measure them, or do you use two at the bottom to simply keep the print from sliding all the way down?

I actually place the print down exactly where I want it to be located, then hold it in place so it doesn't shift, then lift the corners of the piece up individually and put the mylar corners on the piece, then carefully lay it back down and the mylar corner will adhere itself to the backing in the perfect spot. Then continue to do so for the rest of the corners. Just take your time and make sure the piece lays flat when you lat it back down once the mylar corner is slid onto the corner of the piece (so the piece will lay nice and flat once all the corners have mylar corners on them. Let me know if that was confusing, I think I said "mylar" and "corners" waaay too much ;)

Bobak wrote:My biggest concern is visibility given the frame style: this is going to be the see-through the surrounding space (between print and frame) variety --do the edges of the corners at least stay within a 1 or 2 mm of the edge? I don't want them being too obvious.

As long as you get similar mylar corners that I use there is just a very tiny bit of overhang (not sure how many millimeters off hand, probably 1). All of the adhesive will be behind the print once it's all set up. They'll look nice, especially if you put them on all four corners, they'll just look like it's part of the frame, in my opinion.

Image
I have some that look like the one on the far right, but are smaller and are more rigid so you don't see the waviness glare at all.

What do you think?
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

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Patillac13 wrote:As long as you get similar mylar corners that I use there is just a very tiny bit of overhang (not sure how many millimeters off hand, probably 1). All of the adhesive will be behind the print once it's all set up. They'll look nice, especially if you put them on all four corners, they'll just look like it's part of the frame, in my opinion.

Image
I have some that look like the one on the far right, but are smaller and are more rigid so you don't see the waviness glare at all.

What do you think?


That sounds like a good idea (and technique). Where do you get yours? Bags Unlimited, richard BlicK?
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

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Bobak wrote:
Patillac13 wrote:As long as you get similar mylar corners that I use there is just a very tiny bit of overhang (not sure how many millimeters off hand, probably 1). All of the adhesive will be behind the print once it's all set up. They'll look nice, especially if you put them on all four corners, they'll just look like it's part of the frame, in my opinion.

Image
I have some that look like the one on the far right, but are smaller and are more rigid so you don't see the waviness glare at all.

What do you think?


That sounds like a good idea (and technique). Where do you get yours? Bags Unlimited, richard BlicK?


Well, I actually buy them from a local framer here. I think it's about $2 per sheet and there are 16 to a sheet (if I'm remembering correctly). I don't do very much framing, so I just buy a sheet at a time. It'd probably be a lot cheaper to buy a pack from somewhere, but then they might not be the kind I'm use to.
Last edited by Patillac13 on Thu Oct 23, 2008 10:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

Post by rhombus_77 »

Find a store here: http://www.lineco.com/item.cfm?itemnum=L533-0020
There is a store locator link on the bottom.
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

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rhombus_77 wrote:Find a store here: http://www.lineco.com/item.cfm?itemnum=L533-0020
There is a store locator link on the bottom.


That's perfect --there's one right at the mall by my work, I can hit the Michael's right afterwards for the frames I have in mind. Thanks both Patillac13 and rhombus_77!
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Re: DIY framing with easycraig

Post by Phởgg »

one of the best and most useful threads on this forum.

thanks easycraig for documenting your process

my personal style favorites of yours are the currency frame, yellow bomber and Calma piece

is that a 1 1/2in. brushed steel frame on the currency?

used to fabricate lots of those for mirror display back in my metal shop days
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Post by password »

I have a framed piece where the brown paper covering on the back where the framers sealed it ripped. Any advice on patching it?
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