DIY framing with easycraig

Post by **easycraig** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 5:49 pm

-anti glare plexi... i am sure there is... but it is expensive... top quality plexi is more expensive then museum glass.

i keep regurgitating this... but at OSH they have plexi there that is called Lexan... and it is as clear as glass... and 98% uv protected... as for how much glare comes through... i dont know... I can only say i have serveral pieces up with plexi and they look great to me.. - and I like plexi over glass for large pieces just because of the weight and the lack of mess if it does fall... - I had an 18x24 piece of glass break once and the shards it generated was absolutely mind blowing.... ( after several cleanings and vacuuming, i was finding glass pieces weeks later 10 feet away from where it happened.. ) ec

Website · Post by **illyanadmc** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:16 pm

easycraig wrote:I had an 18x24 piece of glass break once and the shards it generated was absolutely mind blowing.... ( after several cleanings and vacuuming, i was finding glass pieces weeks later 10 feet away from where it happened.. ) ec

no joke - i once had a golf ball go through my window and there was glass in places weren't even in line-of-sight with the window! months later, i was packing up to move and found glass that i had missed.

Post by **Patillac13** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 12:05 am

Easycraig, I have a couple questions for you, man.
It's nice and light and small, so it should be easier than a larger print, how would you float Obey Currency in a frame? (The Japanese hinge paper, you wet it, then press the print on it? That's OK?!)
And if that doesn't work out, could I just press it right up to the glass or plexi. It's an offset, so that should be cool, right? I just don't want to put the little fellers in danger.

I have some snazzy plans for the frame up, I hope it turns out like I'm thinking! Thanks for any info/advice.

Post by **easycraig** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 3:20 am

hey... you can use the japanese hinge paper... yes, you will have to lightly wet it and stick it to the back of the bill.

I float mounted my bills.... over some extra mat board... I just used a couple small pieces of acid free double stick tape... ( lot easier to use then the hinge paper... probably not quite as safe... but I have never had a problem getting the double stick tape off a print... ) hope that helps.... here is what mine currency looks like.

Post by **Patillac13** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:26 am

I think I'm just going to dip into my girlfriend's scrapbooking stuff (Shhh, don't tell). Hahaha.
I was thinking I'd go on an adventure to find the hinge paper (and figure out how to use it a bit) after I make the frame, but I'd much rather use a little acid-free double sided tape! Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it!

Is the frame you have about 9x11 (outside dimensions)? I think that's the rough dimensions I am going to make mine. By the way, nice thread you've got here, I dig the DIY framing with Easycraig!

Johnster0228 · Post by **Johnster0228** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 2:09 pm

easycraig wrote:hey... you can use the japanese hinge paper... yes, you will have to lightly wet it and stick it to the back of the bill.

I float mounted my bills.... over some extra mat board... I just used a couple small pieces of acid free double stick tape... ( lot easier to use then the hinge paper... probably not quite as safe... but I have never had a problem getting the double stick tape off a print... ) hope that helps.... here is what mine currency looks like.

I the removable 3M tape in the blue packaging for mounting...works great and comes off with ease. Looks great EC...I cant wait for my other bill to arrive so I can work on something. Thanks.

robotoil · Post by **robotoil** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 11:44 pm

"Do it yourself" with EC rocks!

I need to try this soon. You save soooo much money doing it yourself. I'm thinking of building a box frame for one of my larger Bast paintings. Some pine around the sides and some plywood in the back. UV Plexi on the front. Then maybe float it by hanging it attached to some even sided pressure clamps that have a little style to them. Have some built in lighting. Dunno for sure yet.

rhombus_77 · Post by **rhombus_77** » Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:14 am

You gotta try it Robotoil, everyone is doing it!

more · Post by **more** » Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:13 pm

I have found richard Blick to be great for prints.

These are what I purchase http://www.dickblick.com/zz170/83/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The black ones are very nice. I have (4) 18x24 and 2 of the oversize for off-set prints.

rhombus_77 · Post by **rhombus_77** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:24 pm

I finished this frame job up today. It will be the last DIY until I get proper tools. The frame was made by gluing to different pieces of molding together to create a rabbet. This was a birthday gift for my mom.

skoola · Post by **skoola** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:36 pm

man, that looks really good rhombus

stickee · Post by **stickee** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 7:39 pm

robotoil wrote:"Do it yourself" with EC rocks!

I need to try this soon. You save soooo much money doing it yourself. I'm thinking of building a box frame for one of my larger Bast paintings. Some pine around the sides and some plywood in the back. UV Plexi on the front. Then maybe float it by hanging it attached to some even sided pressure clamps that have a little style to them. Have some built in lighting. Dunno for sure yet.

wouldn't the built in lighting give off UV?

rhombus_77 · Post by **rhombus_77** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:25 pm

Total shot in the dark here, but I was cruisin the web for cheap frames and found this:

http://www.pfile.com/cgi/cart.cgi?db=st ... =all_words

$11.50 for an 18x24 frame. Anyone shopped here before or use these frames?

Typhoon · Post by **Typhoon** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 4:08 pm

Be careful with "poster" frames. I'm not familiar with those in your link, but the ones I've seen don't have room for a mat.

skoola · Post by **skoola** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:24 pm

Typhoon wrote:Be careful with "poster" frames. I'm not familiar with those in your link, but the ones I've seen don't have room for a mat.

yeah and they kind of look like the really flimsy cheap frames from michaels

rhombus_77 · Post by **rhombus_77** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:26 pm

skoola wrote:
Typhoon wrote:Be careful with "poster" frames. I'm not familiar with those in your link, but the ones I've seen don't have room for a mat.
yeah and they kind of look like the really flimsy cheap frames from michaels

yeah, i guess you get what you pay for.

ptd.gwb · Post by **ptd.gwb** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 12:15 pm

great thread, any thoughts for or against this particular mat cutter- logan 450?
thinking of picking it up from d!ck blick since it's almost half off the retail price there...
http://www.dickblick.com/zz171/07/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

justin

rhombus_77 · Post by **rhombus_77** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 12:24 pm

ptd.gwb wrote:great thread, any thoughts for or against this particular mat cutter- logan 450?
thinking of picking it up from d!ck blick since it's almost half off the retail price there...
http://www.dickblick.com/zz171/07/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

justin

i have one (L-405) and am pretty content. It does have issues though with squaring properly (although it could be me).

MrMurk · Post by **MrMurk** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 3:13 pm

I have the Logan 450 and I got a killer deal - When Hobby Lobby had a 40% off coupon I took it in and picked one up for like $130 - Very happy to say the least.

I did the same thing with the Logan Dual Driver Framing Tool for the back of a frame - That was a great deal at like $22.

byrnexxx · Post by **byrnexxx** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:04 pm

MrMurk wrote:I have the Logan 450 and I got a killer deal - When Hobby Lobby had a 40% off coupon I took it in and picked one up for like $130 - Very happy to say the least.

I did the same thing with the Logan Dual Driver Framing Tool for the back of a frame - That was a great deal at like $22.

I think Michael's potentially has this for cheaper if you can find a week when they run a 40% off single item sale.

JackMama · Post by **JackMama** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:37 pm

Basic Question

What are you using for spacers on a basic frame? i tried the 1/8 econospacers, but i could not close the back of the frame. is it as easy are dropping down to the 1/16th, or are there alternatives?

i know i have read about this on another thread, but too much searching gives me a headache

Gigantico · Post by **Gigantico** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 5:11 pm

JackMama wrote:Basic Question

What are you using for spacers on a basic frame? i tried the 1/8 econospacers, but i could not close the back of the frame. is it as easy are dropping down to the 1/16th, or are there alternatives?

i know i have read about this on another thread, but too much searching gives me a headache

If I'm thinking of the same thread, the resolution was bypassing the little tabs that you would normally use to hold everything in and just tape the backing to the frame. I tried this but it seemed like the print was still a little loose against the spacers.

ptd.gwb · Post by **ptd.gwb** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:32 pm

anyone had any issues cutting bainbridge 8-ply alpharag on their matcutters. i love my mats thick, and this amounts to an 1/8th inch board. i guess in terms of experience, i'm quite a crafty person being an architect, but i haven't had much experience cutting mats using the machines, though i'm sure i can pick it up fairly quickly.

i'm just wracking my brain trying to decide whether to purchase a mat cutter ($150) and uncut boards (8-ply uncut boards are actually quite expensive in themselves- $25 for a 32x40 sheet), or just spend money on a $40 precut board which to a certain extent guarantees a level of perfection without the hassle and potential danger of messing up...

any thoughts would be much appreciated...

stickee · Post by **stickee** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 11:13 pm

don't forget you can use the bit you cut out of the middle of the mat for a smaller frame and then do the same again till it gets to the size of a postcard

that is if you have smaller things to mat, after getting my mat cutter the other week I was rummaging round my house for smaller things in frames and small thing to fram and ended up getting 6 mats out of one sheet and it was good practise for me and am now getting really great results from a logan 4000 handheld

Bamboozle · Post by **Bamboozle** » Thu Feb 28, 2008 12:36 am

I want to get my http://www.thegiant.org/wiki/index.php/ ... lism:_Good" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and eventually Bad side framed but it's seriously huge and I cant imagine how much professional framing could cost. I have a question that, If I want to show the decked edge and float the print between plexis (or plexi and board), wouldn't I be risking the print sticking to the plexi-glass? I do remember seeing a floated piece in this thread and it looks so cool but this is on a different scale. Frameless glass screwed together would be ideal but...probably unhealthy for the print and, it might not work? Any Ideas?

The Giant

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